http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php Copyright 2008, Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com en-US SPHPBLOG 0.4.8 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080511-022513 BUILDING A GARDEN PATIO

Building a garden patio with brick or stone pavers is probably the best way to accomplish any patio project. Laying the correct patio can be a relaxing and idylic retreat for those lazy summer days, but that's why it is important that you make the right choice. That means you have to make sure it is ideally positioned in your garden.

You should not erect/build your patio in an area where it will be isolated, but consider to build it in an area with the best views. This means that the positioning is especially important, I would place my patio in a positioned where I get the sun and a degree of privacy! But this is personal preference and is upto you and your lifestyle.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL CONCRETE PATIO OR BRICK?

To build a garden patio can be very satisfying and look really good. The work is fairly straightforward if you are relatively decent with your hands. The first and foremost points to remember are good planning and preparation, without the two you will find the project harder than you expected and your results will be sub-standard.

Remember to look at the positioning of the sun, not a massive point but none the less a factor worth considering! Check out your landscape, have you got any trees obstructing the light?

YOUR CHOICE

The patio can be many shapes and designs, but if you're not confident, then it is probably best to have a square patio, although a circular one is also possible, but you would have to start cutting bricks. Circular patios can be purchased from most do-it-yourself stores and at reasonable prices.

Don't forget that you will need at least two inches on the edges to place brick edging. Clear the area you have chosen by digging it out to a depth of about 8/9 inches. Make a frame up the same size as your project and place it around the edges. Don't forget you will need to put a slight slope onto your patio to enable rainwater to run freely off. Make sure you run the slope off in the opposite direction of the house and below any damp courses!

After this you should now do a run with your bricks just to make sure everything is lined up and going to fit.

PRACTICAL GUIDE

Pour Lime Stone or any hardcore aggregate into the area to a depth of about 5/6 inches. When the area is covered with this you need to tamper it down ideally with a whacker plate. Alternatively, get a plank of wood about 8" wide by 3" thick and as long as needed and simply place it across the hardcore and hit it down with a lump hammer.

Once this procedure is completed you now need to place a weed blanket over the area to protect your patio from weeds growing up through the surface. Now you can pour your sand and it must be a minimum of 2/3 inches deep. You now need a screed to level the sand , check for a good level up against your framework.

START LAYING BRICKS

At this stage you can begin to lay your brick. Make sure you have a line to keep you on the straight and narrow. Keep checking for level as you go along laying your bricks. Always start at a corner and work your way along, you will need a rubber mallet at this point to gently tapp the bricks into place whilst using a spirit level for trueness.

Assuming you will be using standard 4 x 8 bricks at 2 inches thick, you can continue with the weave pattern this pattern looks good and is very effective because it interlocks the bricks very well and makes for a stronger job! Once your bricks are laid you need to put sand on top and sweep this into the cracks and crevices.

SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE VIEW

If you are using paving slabs then the principles are basically the same. But remember to continuously check for the right level, using pavers will probably be quicker but visually just as effective. Any cutting you need to do can be done with either a grinder, hammer and chisel or a brick splitter, I recommend purchasing a simple brick/paving slab splitter.

By: Dane Plant
http://buymyworld.com]]> Patio http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080511-022513 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Sun, 11 May 2008 07:25:13 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=05&entry=entry080511-022513 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080421-234845 Home improvements are a great way to get more money for your home when you get ready to sell it. But some improvements will bring more value to your home than others. Recently, installing vinyl siding has been recognized as the best thing you can do to add value to your home. Here are a few of the reasons this improvement is the single-best thing you can do for your "bottom line" when selling your house.

It looks good. Vinyl siding comes in a variety of colors and styles to fit your preferences. But in addition to that, the trim and soffits complement your home's color perfectly. You can even get several accessories to complete the look for your home that you want to create. Whether you have a ranch home, a modern-style home or a turn-of-the-century Victorian, you can find a style of vinyl siding that matches your needs.

It lasts for decades. Vinyl siding is the most popular type of siding now. Its durability adds to its popularity because it stands up to rain, snow, sleet, and rain. It won't crack or peel in the sun or hot weather. And it can take a beating without showing signs of wear and tear. If the neighborhood kids hit it with a ball, it won't dent or scratch like other types of siding. When it needs a cleaning, all you need to do is rinse it with soap and water. Afterwards, it looks like you just added a fresh coat of paint to it.

It's a great value. When you get ready to sell your home and you add vinyl siding to it, you can usually recoup about 100 percent of the money you spent for the siding. Sometimes you can add even more value to the house than what you spent for the siding. Vinyl siding is typically less expensive than aluminum, too. And you don't need to worry about people ripping off the siding to sell at the scrap yard, either.

It's easy to do. Many handy homeowners have been able to install their vinyl siding without hiring a professional company to do it for them. This can save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars depending on the size of your house. It's more flexible and you don't have to worry about creases in the metal or deep cuts from the jagged edges.

If you have to choose which home improvement project to do for your home, vinyl siding should be at the top of your list. With its appearance, durability, and affordability, it's the best thing you can do for your home's overall value.

By: Jeff Lundquist
Jeff works in Edina, Minnesota home of the first indoor mall. His website provides information about Edina realty. If you are looking for a property in Edina his site has a search of the Edina MLS along with information on Edina homes.]]> Siding http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080421-234845 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:48:45 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=04&entry=entry080421-234845 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080402-235452 Suspended ceilings are like a second ceiling, it is placed underneath the existing ceiling and is used to hide pipelines or ductwork. They are generally attached and suspended on wires from the ceiling above and are laid out in a grid where tiles are fitted in. Suspended ceilings can be made with a lot of materials, for example, wood.

Once the suspended ceilings have been installed you can fit in fluorescent lights or install air ducts etc. They are used a lot to cover up this kind of work anyway so suspended ceilings being installed to cover air ducts can easily be integrated in. Also you can install insulation into your suspended ceilings which absorbs heat and sound.

Suspended ceilings are also implemented so that maintenance can take place in the void that is made when the ceiling is installed.

When designing and purchasing your suspended ceilings you are going to need to decide whether or not you want the ceiling to be demountable or completely non-accessible. If you make you suspended ceilings demountable then this will allow you to easily access the ceiling void and perform maintenance on the ceiling or on other objects that the ceiling is concealing. If you make your suspended ceiling non accessible then you will not be able to perform ceiling maintenance easily as you will not be able to get into the ceiling void.

You should consider the above very seriously as the ceilings will need to be redone if you wish to be able to change a non accessible ceiling into a demountable one.

There are many different types of suspended ceilings systems but all are different depending on your requirements yet the concept is the same. For example there is the free span suspend ceiling system that is mainly used for corridors. This kind of system is made up of ceiling planks which are held by the perimeter trim on their short edges. This kind of system can be installed quickly and pretty easily, also it can produce a very nice effect when finished which is usually smooth. These types of suspended ceilings can be made de-mountable for maintenance or non-accessible; if you opt for the de-mountable type then the ceiling planks are removed to allow you your easy access.

Another suspended ceiling system is the bandraster system; these types of suspended ceilings are very flexible and can be made to match with any kind of building architecture. Once again these suspended ceilings can be made accessible or non accessible. These suspended ceiling are design with either concealed or exposed sections which link up to achieve lateral bracing, therefore these systems can be modified to fit any building.

Another system is the exposed suspended ceilings system which is another system which can be installed quickly and efficiently and also allows for you to do maintenance work in the ceiling void easily. These types of suspended ceilings have tiles slotted into a suspended grid allowing for it to be edited easily as well.

I hope this has helped in your search for your suspended ceilings.

By: Tony Savour
AMF Ceilings ]]> Ceilings http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080402-235452 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Thu, 03 Apr 2008 04:54:52 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=04&entry=entry080402-235452 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080311-020605 Why should you care about energy efficiency?

Perhaps the biggest reason is to save money. A home that isn't energy efficient takes more energy to heat in the winter and cool in the summer. This means you are spending extra money every month on energy bills, bills that can be significantly lowered by undertaking a few simple home improvements.

The key to making your home more efficient to correct air-flow problems. Make sure air is flowing where it needs to be and isn't flowing where it shouldn't be.

A few small cracks in your home can be as bad for your heating and cooling as a window left open. Older homes frequently have undergone small changes to accommodate updated wiring, and this can be an energy sink. Caulk all small holes where wires go through walls or floors. Check brick facades and the outside of your home for small cracks and signs of wear that may be counteracting insulation.

If your home has a chimney make sure it is sealed with high-temperature cement and metal flashing. Keep the flue closed when it is not in use to prevent air flowing indoors from it. Tight fitting glass covers can also help keep cold air where it belongs.

Plumbing stacks also need to be sealed on the outside. In general look for any holes between the attic and the heated space and seal them as much as possible. Use weather stripping on the entry to the attic as well as insulation on the attic-side of the door.

Now, how's your insulation? Making sure you have enough insulation is key to keeping your home efficient. 18 inches of fiberglass batting or cellulose will greatly improve your heating and cooling systems. The attic does need air flow, however, so make sure air vents are clear and unobstructed.

Each window needs to be checked to make sure it closes completely and locks. Windows can be weather stripped just like doors. Outlets and switches provide access for cold air to enter, but this can be prevented by installing foam gaskets behind them. Child-safety plugs for the outlets also reduce cold air flowing from the sockets.

Old windows and doors need to be checked every year. If one doesn't fit properly, seal it with caulking or weather stripping. If the piece is warped heavily replace it with a new energy efficient model. Expanding foam is also an option to use around door- and window-frames.

Every hole on the outside face of your home can increase inefficiency. Seal laundry vents, water faucets, electrical outlets, and other hookups. Install storm- windows and doors where you don't already have them to create a buffer of air that retains heat and coolness. When it comes time to change siding, add foam insulation behind it.

Basements and crawlspaces need to be checked and sealed. If you have a crawlspace, place a layer of plastic over it to help insulate. Regular basements with concrete walls can be a major problem for efficiency. Consider adding insulation and drywall over the concrete.

Appliances are rated for their efficiency. Choose products with Energy Star ratings and choose compact fluorescent light bulbs that fit in standard sockets.

These fairly inexpensive home improvements can save you a lot of money in the long run. It's definitely worth taking steps to increase your home's efficiency, and as you can now see, it's not even that hard.

By: TC Thorn
TC Thorn has written more articles on home improvements and energy efficiency at Luxury Housing Trends. Her article on green kitchen appliances discusses improving energy use in the kitchen.]]> Energy Conservation http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080311-020605 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:06:05 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=03&entry=entry080311-020605 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080229-224534 Here are some frequently asked questions, and answers, about fireplaces.

1 - How high should a fireplace chimney be with respect to the height of the house, and what features of design affect its efficient operation?

ANSWER: A chimney should extend at least three feet above flat roofs and at least two feet above the ridge of a peak or hip roof. Solid masonry is the most commonly used material. Satisfactory performance of a chimney flue is determined by its size, direction, shape, height, tightness and smoothness.

2. Is there a particular kind of mortar that should be used in fireplace construction? How is it mixed and where is it used?

ANSWER: The brick around a fireplace and flue should be laid with cement mortar, since it is more resistant than lime mortar to the action of heat and flue gases. The best to use, except on firebrick, consists of one part portland cement, one part hydrated lime, and six parts clean sand. Firebrick is best laid in fire clay.

3. What is the purpose of a damper, and how is it constructed?

ANSWER: A damper affords a means of regulating the draft and prevents excessive loss of heat from the room when the fire is out. It consists of a cast-iron or steel frame with a lid hinged so the width of the throat opening may be varied from a closed to a wide-open position.

4. What is the proper procedure for connecting the chimney to the roof so as to guard against fire, and to allow for expansion due to temperature changes, settlement, or slight movement of the chimney during heavy winds?

ANSWER: Where the chimney passes through the roof, provide for a two-inch clearance between the wood framing and the masonry. The chimney must be flashed and counterflashed to make its junction with the roof watertight. Corrosion-resistant metal, such as copper, galvanized metal, zinc, aluminum, or lead is best for the counterfiashing. When tin is used, paint it well on both sides.

5. Is it necessary that a flue be lined, and if so, what are the advantages in lining it?

ANSWER: Chimneys can be built without linings, but those with linings are more efficient. When the flue is not lined, the mortar and bricks directly exposed to the action of fuel gases disintegrate. This disintegration and that occuring from changes in temperature often cause cracks in the masonry, which reduces the draft.

6. What is the proper way to build the smoke shelf?

ANSWER: The smoke shelf should be made by setting the brickwork back at the top of the throat to the line of the flue wall for the full width of the throat. The depth can vary from six to twelve inches or more, depending on the depth of the fireplace.

7. Does the kind of fuel to be burned have anything to do with the selection of a fireplace design, and does the size of the opening affect the operation?

ANSWER When a fireplace design is being selected, the kind of fuel to be burned should be considered; also, the design should harmonize with the room in proportion and detail. Years ago, when cordwood was plentiful, fireplaces seven feet wide and five feet high were common, but they required large amounts of fuel and were often smoky. Where cordwood is cut in half, a 30-inch width is desirable for a fireplace, but where coal is burned, the opening can be narrower. Thirty inches is a practical height for the fireplace where the width is less than six feet. The higher the opening, the greater the chance of a smoky fireplace. In general, the wider the opening the greater should be the depth.

Following these guidelines, a satisfactory chimney may be selected.

By: Russell R. Freeman
Would You Like Tips On Fireplace Design?
I've Got Loads Of Great Ideas And Expert Advice To Help Design Your Fireplace.
Click Here For Free Ideas: http://www.fireplace-design.org/]]> Fireplace http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080229-224534 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Sat, 01 Mar 2008 04:45:34 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=02&entry=entry080229-224534 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080220-202753 Asian kitchens are truly elegant and symmetrical in nature because of the fine attention to finish and detail. If you're eyeing on getting the same clean and chic style, make sure you know the right colors to use, the decors and the materials. Consistency and symmetry are two of the most important qualities of an Asian kitchen. Here are a few guidelines for yours.

The Materials

Bamboo immediately creates a wonderful Asian feel to your kitchen. You can use bamboo independently as a plant decoration. However, other more creative ideas would be to split it then line your cupboards, one part of the wall or chairs. You can also line the lower areas of your island counter or sink. Smaller bamboo stalks with leaves can be glued on to cabinet doors and areas over the sink for a Japanese feel.

Silk is very versatile and adds some Chinese influence into your Asian kitchen. You can buy silk with beautiful prints and hang them on the wall. Other silks preferably dark red, orange and pink can be made into table cloths, mats and coasters. Install a wooden frame over the island counter and hang white silk on it together with pots, pans and utensils.

Chrome is very popular among Asians. Choose chrome silver or gold pans, pots and utensils. You can select your refrigerator, oven, stoves and sinks in this manner too. Accessorize drawer pulls and knobs with by choosing chrome ones. The gleam of this material will help add to the sleekness and symmetry that you are trying to create.

Asian Colors and Decors

Popular Asian colors are red, white, black and dark brown. To add an oriental feel, use some gold on red or black with red. Silver also provides a cooling accent. Chrome kitchen utensils, pots and pans will give a nice contrast. Use 3 to 4 main colors at most. You may want to use plants as well to neutralize everything. A single flower on a vase is stylish enough. Assorted fruits in a large bowl or dish also look great.

Setting chopsticks, Thai toothpicks and other native pieces will compliment your overall theme. Utilitarian rice chests are very aesthetic and useful. Hand-forged ironware are very bold as well so you may want to use one or two only at most. You can store condiments in them when not in use. Feel free to add or mix furniture with different Asian influences. Japanese cabinets will still provide a warm effect beside exotic woodworks from Korea.

By: Tim Lee
For more kitchen design ideas, visit http://www.kitchendesignideas101.com.]]> Kitchen http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080220-202753 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Thu, 21 Feb 2008 02:27:53 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=02&entry=entry080220-202753 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080211-021012 Designing a new bathroom for your home is a challenge, and enormously rewarding if you get it right. The trouble is, bathroom design is no walk in the park and there are many pitfalls to avoid. The most common errors are also the most the basic and if you avoid those, you'll be on the right track.

So what are the basic errors of bathroom design to avoid?

The first is possibly - or at least should be - the most obvious, and that's not giving enough consideration to the space into which your new bathroom must be fitted. Whether big or small, all bathrooms have only a finite amount of space so give proper thought to the best way to use it. If you clutter up that space with lots of nice but unnecessary features, all your planning and money will go to waste and you'll be left with a bathroom that's unsuitable or unsightly. Likewise, if you don't make proper use of the space available, it will be a missed opportunity.

You also have to get your colour scheme right. If you don't pay proper attention to the light and shade then you could end up with an uninviting bathroom. Bear in mind that the mornings and evenings are the times you'll be using the bathroom most.

Another common error of bathroom design is not giving proper consideration to the style of the rest of your home - that is, designing a bathroom that's incongruous with the interior design concept you've employed elsewhere. It's no good having state-of-the-art, space-age features and looks if the rest of your home is rustic and cosy. And it's no good having a country-style bathroom if your other rooms have been decorated in an art deco style. You get the picture. Interior design is like a jigsaw; the pieces - that is, the different rooms - have to fit together without being forced.

Here's another biggie - don't forget who's going to be using the bathroom. Get the design right for your living situation. If you have a family, the design of your bathroom has to reflect that and cater for everyone. Is a bath more important than a shower, or vice versa? It's a personal choice and once again these things might seem obvious, but you'd be amazed at how many people end up with a bathroom that's unsuitable for their needs because they've been blinded by the latest cool looking features.

Which brings us to the next common faux pas - prioritizing the latest fashions and fads over tried and tested, functional designs. This is especially true when it comes to bathroom tile designs and flooring. Just because it looks good today and everyone's got it now, it doesn't mean that a year down the line it will look as fresh. Today's fashions can be tomorrow's embarrassments so choose wisely and don't buy something because some overpaid presenter on TV tells you it's the latest must-have feature for your bathroom.

So there you have it. Bear the basics in mind, have fun and knock yourself out designing the perfect bathroom for your home.

By: Peter Deville
Peter Deville is an interior design expert and contributor to the Bathroom Design.]]> Bathroom http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080211-021012 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Mon, 11 Feb 2008 08:10:12 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=02&entry=entry080211-021012 http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080202-001433 In the 1970's and 80's Solar Energy first emerged as a potentially viable and cost-effective alternative to traditional heating sources such as fuel oil, natural gas, coal, wood, and electric. Unfortunately, these first generation solar collectors were expensive, inefficient, and delivered long payback periods and lower returns on the initial investment than expected.

In the following decades leaders in the Solar Energy Industry went back to work, striving to create more efficient, more affordable, and more cost-effective Solar Water Heaters that would not only be a viable alternative to traditional heating sources, but would be able to supplant the majority of our heating needs, lowering the world's dependence on non-renewable energy sources, which cannot be replaced once they are depleted.

Today, there are three main types of Solar Water Heaters available. These collectors are for more efficient and cost-effective than their predecessors, and are well-suited for a number of applications such as small residential installations and pool heating, all the way to large commercial, industrial and municipal installations across the United States, and around the world. These three collectors are Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, Flat Plate Solar Collectors, and Unglazed Solar Collectors.

Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors - these collectors are typically the most expensive of Solar Thermal Collectors. The unique tube design of these collectors makes them extremely efficient at collecting and transferring heat energy to your home's hot water. Because of the unique design, Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, unlike Flat Plate Collectors, are great at operating at high efficiency earlier and later in the day than other solar technologies, and during the winter months when the days are shorter and the sun is a far lower elevation in the sky. This makes Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors far more cost-effective in these climates and locations.

Flat Plate Solar Collectors - these collectors are typically less expensive than Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, but in warmer, southern climates, can just as, if not more efficient and cost-effective. Flat Plate Solar Collectors are not particularly freeze protected, and like a Solar Panel for PV Energy, require the sun to be directly overhead at as close to a 90 angle as possible in order to operate with decent efficiency.

Because of these factors, Flat Plate Solar Collectors particularly ineffective during the winter months in northern, cold climates where freezing is a problem, the days are extremely short, and the sun is at extremely low angles every day. However, in southern climates where winters are mild, the days remain long, and the sun remains at a relatively high angle, because of their lower initial cost, Flat Plate Solar Collectors are one of the most cost-effective Solar Water Heaters available.

Unglazed Solar Collectors - these collectors are specifically designed for Solar Pool Heating. These collectors are effective for Pool Heating because they are low-temperature (about 120-150 F) and high volume heaters. These collectors are the lowest cost of all Solar Water Heaters, often costing under $200 per collector, and are generally constructed of flexible tube like material that can simply be rolled out and mounted directly to a roof, fence, or the ground in a matter of minutes. These collectors are extremely efficient and powerful in all areas of the United States during the summer months, but are not rated to stand up to winter weather such as snow, ice, and freezing temperatures. If you are looking for an affordable way to heat your pool and extend your swimming season earlier in the spring and later in the fall, regardless of where you live, Unglazed Solar Collectors may be the right choice for you.

Any of these Solar Water Heaters can save the average American homeowner hundreds of dollars a year, and thousands of dollars over the lifetime of the system once it is installed and operational. Today, home and water heating costs account for almost 40% of our annual energy bills, and these Solar Water Heaters can replace 65-80% of these costs for an initial investment of just a few thousand dollars. In fact, purchasing and installing a Solar Water Heater often costs as much as installing a new traditional heater, but through energy savings, will pay for itself in as little as 3-5 years.

By: Adam Farell
If you would like more extensive information, or would like help discovering the financial benefits of installing a Solar Water Heater in your own home, I recommend that you contact a Solar Hot Water Professional for a Free Home and Cost-Benefit Analysis today. Silicon Solar Inc, manufacturers of the SunMaxx Solar Water Heaters, the lowest priced Solar Collectors on the market, can be found at http://www.sunmaxxsolar.com.]]> Water Heaters http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/index.php?entry=entry080202-001433 Resources For Attorneys hi@resourcesforattorneys.com Sat, 02 Feb 2008 06:14:33 GMT http://homeimprovement.resourcesforattorneys.com/comments.php?y=08&m=02&entry=entry080202-001433