When deciding on a new entry door for your house you need to be very careful. The entry is the first impression people have of your home, so you need to choose them well. The front entry door is the focus of the entry to your home.

The problem is that because the entry door is always exposed to the inclement of weather they often look old before their time. Older homes used wood entry doors because this was the material that people wanted because it looked natural and gave a worm feeling. The problem is that these wooden doors are very susceptible to bad weather.

Modern day entry doors are quite different. Today there are many modern versions for entry doors. There is every type and size you can imagine available. Some are made of wood, and others are made of fiberglass, and fiberglass and steel combinations. And an even better feature of today’s doors is that the entire entry door is sold as an entry system. This means that the door is already pre hung in a frame, and includes weather stripping on the bottom edge. These doors even come with side lights, locksets and hinges.

As mentioned before there are many materials that entry doors are made of today, and sometimes what appears to be a wood door is not really a wood door. Many of today’s wood doors have steel interiors and most doors whether wood or steel have some sort of foam insulation.

All entry doors weather wood, or non wood come in two types: paneled or flush. Paneled doors are the ones that have rectangular recesses in them. This type of door was designed so the wood would not warp or crack as much. Flush doors have a flat and smooth surface. Those doors that are considered to be door lights have glass panels that substitute the rectangular panels in woodened paneled doors.

An entry doors design influences the way a room or an entry to a room looks and in some way may affect the overall look of the entire home. That’s why when choosing an entry door you should look at some type of panel door, because they look like they have been finely crafted, and a flush door looks very functional but has no style at all. Because of this a paneled entry door will cost a little more than a flushed door.

When Choosing a Door You Need to Take Several Factors into Consideration.

When you choose your entry door you should decide based on your personal taste, but you should also factor in cost and durability.

After all what good does it do you to buy a very expensive entry door if you are going to have to replace it in a few short years?

By: Ryan Richards
Ryan Richards - Working for NYC top security systems company - http://www.VertexSecurity.com dealing with anything related to advanced security solution. From entry door - to - french door or any type of Security Doors solutions, call VertexSecurity.com

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:
Ladder
Plastic water bucket
Gloves
Rags
TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)
liquid soap
Screwdriver
Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets
Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)
Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting
Spackling compound
5-in-1 tool or wide blade
Latex caulk
220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer
Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen
Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket
Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover
2” – 3” Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?
Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.
When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, “don't waste your time” or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label—this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room? The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups. Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.
CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.
NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What’s in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss. Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI – GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

By: Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
http://www.designershistoricalstencils.com

Are you on the lookout for a quick and easy way to spruce up the appearance of the cabinets in your home? If so, then keep on reading. You might think that you have to take the time to refurbish everything, but there is no refurbishing and painting involved. Actually, all you need to do is purchase some new cabinet knobs for them.

That is right! Purchasing and installing new cabinet knobs is a great way to change of the look of any cabinetry that you have in your home. For example, maybe the ones in your kitchen space are looking a little on the dull side and it is dragging down the entire look of your kitchen. Well, if you want to bring a little life into the space, then you can replace the ones that are a little more vibrant and lively. Like, something made out of metal that has a polished finish or another great option would be something crafted out of wood that has a neat shape to it. Or, maybe you are not all that thrilled with the way your cabinets look in your bathroom. A nice choice for this space would be ones crafted out of glass or crystal.

What is great about cabinet knobs, is that there are just a lot of different options with these lovely little fixtures. So, not only can you get ones that are crafted from wood, crystal, and glass, but you can also get ones made from different metals like stainless steel and copper, others that are fashioned out of porcelain, and many, many others. Different finishes and colors are also available too. You can get ones that have an antique finish, others that are oil rubbed, and some that are even available in bright colors. For a great way to see them all, do not head down to your local hardware store. Instead, just do a search on the Internet and browse all the online stores. There are hundreds of thousands of options to choose from, making it easy to find exactly what you are looking for.

Along with buying new cabinet knobs for your cabinetry, you will also need to purchase other cabinet hardware as well. Some of the other hardware that you should purchase with them includes drawer pulls, hinges, and drawer slides. Just like with the knobs, all of this cabinet hardware is also available in the same types of styles so you can to make sure that things match up and look good together in your space. Because if they do not, then you are going to be left with a bit of an eye-sore and you definitely do not want that to happen.

So, if you are searching for a way to spruce up the look of the cabinets in your home without doing a lot of work, then a great option for you is purchasing some new cabinet knobs. There are many selections available that will have your cabinets looking spectacular in no time.

By: Jennifer Akre
As an owner of numerous home decor and design sites, Jennifer Akre shares online consumer reviews and information on cabinet hardware and cabinet knobs, giving the consumer a chance before they purchase to learn more on cabinet hardware and cabinet knobs. Decorate your home your style - your way. Click today - Simply: drawer pulls.

Plaster was common for covering walls in the 19th Century, but with the advent of drywall, plaster fell by the wayside, since it was costlier and took longer to apply. However, with many homeowners looking to recreate the look of plaster walls, the art of creating faux Venetian plaster finishes grows in popularity.

You can buy fake Venetian plaster or hire a trained professional to finish your walls with real Venetian plaster. Some decorative painters train in Italy, but many take classes in the United States.

To create that look yourself, you'll find lots of help on the Internet or in a growing number of books. Do your initial experimenting on a test panel and not on your walls. That way, you can make mistakes without having to clean them up and start all over.

Start by using a textured paint with a consistency slightly thinner than joint compound. It's available at most good hardware centers, since it's commonly used to hide wall and ceiling imperfections and cracks.

Holding a trowel like those used to apply cement to the curved surfaces of swimming pools, apply the textured paint. The larger the trowel, the more surface you can cover with each stroke. Distribute the paint fairly evenly. You can go back later to achieve the texture you're looking for. Hold the trowel at about 45 degrees for the first pass, then flatten it out a little to create more texture.

Let that coat dry for about twenty-four hours before moving to the second step, which is applying paint to your textured surface. A satin finish works best.

Let that coat dry for at least an hour before applying the top coat, a water-based glazing liquid, with a medium nap roller. A glazing medium, tinted to your desired color, works better than watered-down paint, because you're going to go back immediately after you've finished and take most of it off again, and you wouldn't be able to do that with watered-down paint. It dries too fast.

Once the glazing liquid has been applied, use a rag towel to begin removing it, using a circular motion. Go over the surface, allowing the glaze to collect in the low spots in your textured paint, until you no longer see any swipe marks. don't press down too hard and ruin your textured surface, and don't worry about mistakes, because you're making them BEFORE you tackle your walls.

Let the surface dry for about a week. It will have the look and feel of plaster, adding class and warmth to your room--at a fraction of the cost of real plaster work.

By: Jeanette Joy Fisher
If you want a professional faux plaster look, check out the faux artists who volunteered their faux and decorative painting talents for the Habitat for Humanity project featured on TLC's Flip That House
Copyright © 2007 Jeanette J. Fisher

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