Here are some frequently asked questions, and answers, about fireplaces.

1 - How high should a fireplace chimney be with respect to the height of the house, and what features of design affect its efficient operation?

ANSWER: A chimney should extend at least three feet above flat roofs and at least two feet above the ridge of a peak or hip roof. Solid masonry is the most commonly used material. Satisfactory performance of a chimney flue is determined by its size, direction, shape, height, tightness and smoothness.

2. Is there a particular kind of mortar that should be used in fireplace construction? How is it mixed and where is it used?

ANSWER: The brick around a fireplace and flue should be laid with cement mortar, since it is more resistant than lime mortar to the action of heat and flue gases. The best to use, except on firebrick, consists of one part portland cement, one part hydrated lime, and six parts clean sand. Firebrick is best laid in fire clay.

3. What is the purpose of a damper, and how is it constructed?

ANSWER: A damper affords a means of regulating the draft and prevents excessive loss of heat from the room when the fire is out. It consists of a cast-iron or steel frame with a lid hinged so the width of the throat opening may be varied from a closed to a wide-open position.

4. What is the proper procedure for connecting the chimney to the roof so as to guard against fire, and to allow for expansion due to temperature changes, settlement, or slight movement of the chimney during heavy winds?

ANSWER: Where the chimney passes through the roof, provide for a two-inch clearance between the wood framing and the masonry. The chimney must be flashed and counterflashed to make its junction with the roof watertight. Corrosion-resistant metal, such as copper, galvanized metal, zinc, aluminum, or lead is best for the counterfiashing. When tin is used, paint it well on both sides.

5. Is it necessary that a flue be lined, and if so, what are the advantages in lining it?

ANSWER: Chimneys can be built without linings, but those with linings are more efficient. When the flue is not lined, the mortar and bricks directly exposed to the action of fuel gases disintegrate. This disintegration and that occuring from changes in temperature often cause cracks in the masonry, which reduces the draft.

6. What is the proper way to build the smoke shelf?

ANSWER: The smoke shelf should be made by setting the brickwork back at the top of the throat to the line of the flue wall for the full width of the throat. The depth can vary from six to twelve inches or more, depending on the depth of the fireplace.

7. Does the kind of fuel to be burned have anything to do with the selection of a fireplace design, and does the size of the opening affect the operation?

ANSWER When a fireplace design is being selected, the kind of fuel to be burned should be considered; also, the design should harmonize with the room in proportion and detail. Years ago, when cordwood was plentiful, fireplaces seven feet wide and five feet high were common, but they required large amounts of fuel and were often smoky. Where cordwood is cut in half, a 30-inch width is desirable for a fireplace, but where coal is burned, the opening can be narrower. Thirty inches is a practical height for the fireplace where the width is less than six feet. The higher the opening, the greater the chance of a smoky fireplace. In general, the wider the opening the greater should be the depth.

Following these guidelines, a satisfactory chimney may be selected.

By: Russell R. Freeman
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Asian kitchens are truly elegant and symmetrical in nature because of the fine attention to finish and detail. If you're eyeing on getting the same clean and chic style, make sure you know the right colors to use, the decors and the materials. Consistency and symmetry are two of the most important qualities of an Asian kitchen. Here are a few guidelines for yours.

The Materials

Bamboo immediately creates a wonderful Asian feel to your kitchen. You can use bamboo independently as a plant decoration. However, other more creative ideas would be to split it then line your cupboards, one part of the wall or chairs. You can also line the lower areas of your island counter or sink. Smaller bamboo stalks with leaves can be glued on to cabinet doors and areas over the sink for a Japanese feel.

Silk is very versatile and adds some Chinese influence into your Asian kitchen. You can buy silk with beautiful prints and hang them on the wall. Other silks preferably dark red, orange and pink can be made into table cloths, mats and coasters. Install a wooden frame over the island counter and hang white silk on it together with pots, pans and utensils.

Chrome is very popular among Asians. Choose chrome silver or gold pans, pots and utensils. You can select your refrigerator, oven, stoves and sinks in this manner too. Accessorize drawer pulls and knobs with by choosing chrome ones. The gleam of this material will help add to the sleekness and symmetry that you are trying to create.

Asian Colors and Decors

Popular Asian colors are red, white, black and dark brown. To add an oriental feel, use some gold on red or black with red. Silver also provides a cooling accent. Chrome kitchen utensils, pots and pans will give a nice contrast. Use 3 to 4 main colors at most. You may want to use plants as well to neutralize everything. A single flower on a vase is stylish enough. Assorted fruits in a large bowl or dish also look great.

Setting chopsticks, Thai toothpicks and other native pieces will compliment your overall theme. Utilitarian rice chests are very aesthetic and useful. Hand-forged ironware are very bold as well so you may want to use one or two only at most. You can store condiments in them when not in use. Feel free to add or mix furniture with different Asian influences. Japanese cabinets will still provide a warm effect beside exotic woodworks from Korea.

By: Tim Lee
For more kitchen design ideas, visit http://www.kitchendesignideas101.com.

Designing a new bathroom for your home is a challenge, and enormously rewarding if you get it right. The trouble is, bathroom design is no walk in the park and there are many pitfalls to avoid. The most common errors are also the most the basic and if you avoid those, you'll be on the right track.

So what are the basic errors of bathroom design to avoid?

The first is possibly - or at least should be - the most obvious, and that's not giving enough consideration to the space into which your new bathroom must be fitted. Whether big or small, all bathrooms have only a finite amount of space so give proper thought to the best way to use it. If you clutter up that space with lots of nice but unnecessary features, all your planning and money will go to waste and you'll be left with a bathroom that's unsuitable or unsightly. Likewise, if you don't make proper use of the space available, it will be a missed opportunity.

You also have to get your colour scheme right. If you don't pay proper attention to the light and shade then you could end up with an uninviting bathroom. Bear in mind that the mornings and evenings are the times you'll be using the bathroom most.

Another common error of bathroom design is not giving proper consideration to the style of the rest of your home - that is, designing a bathroom that's incongruous with the interior design concept you've employed elsewhere. It's no good having state-of-the-art, space-age features and looks if the rest of your home is rustic and cosy. And it's no good having a country-style bathroom if your other rooms have been decorated in an art deco style. You get the picture. Interior design is like a jigsaw; the pieces - that is, the different rooms - have to fit together without being forced.

Here's another biggie - don't forget who's going to be using the bathroom. Get the design right for your living situation. If you have a family, the design of your bathroom has to reflect that and cater for everyone. Is a bath more important than a shower, or vice versa? It's a personal choice and once again these things might seem obvious, but you'd be amazed at how many people end up with a bathroom that's unsuitable for their needs because they've been blinded by the latest cool looking features.

Which brings us to the next common faux pas - prioritizing the latest fashions and fads over tried and tested, functional designs. This is especially true when it comes to bathroom tile designs and flooring. Just because it looks good today and everyone's got it now, it doesn't mean that a year down the line it will look as fresh. Today's fashions can be tomorrow's embarrassments so choose wisely and don't buy something because some overpaid presenter on TV tells you it's the latest must-have feature for your bathroom.

So there you have it. Bear the basics in mind, have fun and knock yourself out designing the perfect bathroom for your home.

By: Peter Deville
Peter Deville is an interior design expert and contributor to the Bathroom Design.

In the 1970's and 80's Solar Energy first emerged as a potentially viable and cost-effective alternative to traditional heating sources such as fuel oil, natural gas, coal, wood, and electric. Unfortunately, these first generation solar collectors were expensive, inefficient, and delivered long payback periods and lower returns on the initial investment than expected.

In the following decades leaders in the Solar Energy Industry went back to work, striving to create more efficient, more affordable, and more cost-effective Solar Water Heaters that would not only be a viable alternative to traditional heating sources, but would be able to supplant the majority of our heating needs, lowering the world's dependence on non-renewable energy sources, which cannot be replaced once they are depleted.

Today, there are three main types of Solar Water Heaters available. These collectors are for more efficient and cost-effective than their predecessors, and are well-suited for a number of applications such as small residential installations and pool heating, all the way to large commercial, industrial and municipal installations across the United States, and around the world. These three collectors are Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, Flat Plate Solar Collectors, and Unglazed Solar Collectors.

Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors - these collectors are typically the most expensive of Solar Thermal Collectors. The unique tube design of these collectors makes them extremely efficient at collecting and transferring heat energy to your home's hot water. Because of the unique design, Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, unlike Flat Plate Collectors, are great at operating at high efficiency earlier and later in the day than other solar technologies, and during the winter months when the days are shorter and the sun is a far lower elevation in the sky. This makes Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors far more cost-effective in these climates and locations.

Flat Plate Solar Collectors - these collectors are typically less expensive than Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors, but in warmer, southern climates, can just as, if not more efficient and cost-effective. Flat Plate Solar Collectors are not particularly freeze protected, and like a Solar Panel for PV Energy, require the sun to be directly overhead at as close to a 90 angle as possible in order to operate with decent efficiency.

Because of these factors, Flat Plate Solar Collectors particularly ineffective during the winter months in northern, cold climates where freezing is a problem, the days are extremely short, and the sun is at extremely low angles every day. However, in southern climates where winters are mild, the days remain long, and the sun remains at a relatively high angle, because of their lower initial cost, Flat Plate Solar Collectors are one of the most cost-effective Solar Water Heaters available.

Unglazed Solar Collectors - these collectors are specifically designed for Solar Pool Heating. These collectors are effective for Pool Heating because they are low-temperature (about 120-150 F) and high volume heaters. These collectors are the lowest cost of all Solar Water Heaters, often costing under $200 per collector, and are generally constructed of flexible tube like material that can simply be rolled out and mounted directly to a roof, fence, or the ground in a matter of minutes. These collectors are extremely efficient and powerful in all areas of the United States during the summer months, but are not rated to stand up to winter weather such as snow, ice, and freezing temperatures. If you are looking for an affordable way to heat your pool and extend your swimming season earlier in the spring and later in the fall, regardless of where you live, Unglazed Solar Collectors may be the right choice for you.

Any of these Solar Water Heaters can save the average American homeowner hundreds of dollars a year, and thousands of dollars over the lifetime of the system once it is installed and operational. Today, home and water heating costs account for almost 40% of our annual energy bills, and these Solar Water Heaters can replace 65-80% of these costs for an initial investment of just a few thousand dollars. In fact, purchasing and installing a Solar Water Heater often costs as much as installing a new traditional heater, but through energy savings, will pay for itself in as little as 3-5 years.

By: Adam Farell
If you would like more extensive information, or would like help discovering the financial benefits of installing a Solar Water Heater in your own home, I recommend that you contact a Solar Hot Water Professional for a Free Home and Cost-Benefit Analysis today. Silicon Solar Inc, manufacturers of the SunMaxx Solar Water Heaters, the lowest priced Solar Collectors on the market, can be found at http://www.sunmaxxsolar.com.