There are two kinds of paint to use for your interior and exterior painting jobs, and both have their advantages. Oil based paints are thick paints mixed from resins and oils. Latex or acrylic paints are thinner, water-based paints. How do you know which kind of paint is right for your next painting project? Acrylic paints are increasingly popular because they are not as toxic as oil paints and hence do not smell as bad. They are also quicker to dry and it is easier to clean up their mess. However oil paints have the advantage of lasting longer, especially in high traffic areas like on the trip of doorways. Trim is an ideal thing to paint with oils. The thick paint will protect the surface and it will be easy to wipe if the surface gets stained. Oil based paints also work well on the exterior of the house because they hold up well against the elements.

Painting with oil can be difficult because the paint is thicker and harder to stir and spread. You cannot shake oil paint like you can latex paint. It tends to bubble up when you put it on the wall. When you paint with oil, you need to wash your brushes in paint thinner. This is in contract to brushes that have been painting with acrylics; they can just be rinsed with water. Yes, oil paints are harder to remove from not only brushes, but also skin. While acrylics may stain your clothes, they can easily be wiped off your arm, face, or wherever else they happen to splatter during your painting project. Oil paints can also be troublesome because they are considered hazardous waste. You cannot just through a can of oil paint in the trash. You need to take it to an appropriate facility.

Many families prefer to paint with acrylics inside, because the smell of acrylics is less toxic and it fades much faster than oil's lingering scent. However, no paint is exactly safe for children, particularly when ingested, so make sure to clear the painting space of children and adults for a few hours to a few days while the paint dries.

When painting surfaces that are ideal for oil based paints, such as interior doors and trim, remember to prime the surfaces carefully. A good primer is essential for making the paint last. You do not want your paint to start peeling, which it can if the surface is not properly primed, or even if you are painting oil paint over another layer of oil paint. To primes a surface for oil paint, first wash the area. You can paint on primer with a brush, just like you would a regular paint, or spray it on. If you are going to be putting your coat of primer on top of a dark color of oil paint, then it might help to get the primer tinted slightly. This will save you time in the long run, because you will probably not have to apply several coats of oil to cover up the darkness beneath it and will also not need tools like air compressors to do the job.

By: Ray L. Walberg
Focusing on informing about portable air tanks, the columnist wrote for the most part for insidewoodworking.com You can find his articles on portable air compressors at http://www.insidewoodworking.com and many different sources for portable air compressors tips.

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:
Ladder
Plastic water bucket
Gloves
Rags
TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)
liquid soap
Screwdriver
Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets
Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)
Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting
Spackling compound
5-in-1 tool or wide blade
Latex caulk
220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer
Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen
Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket
Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover
2” – 3” Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?
Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.
When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, “don't waste your time” or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label—this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room? The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups. Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.
CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.
NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What’s in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss. Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI – GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

By: Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
http://www.designershistoricalstencils.com

After years of living in your home, you might want to change the way it looks. Over time, people get bored with their environment and because of this you may want to make a few changes in your surroundings. To do this, you can consider starting by getting rid of your old wallpaper.

However, if you removed wallpaper before, you know how difficult it is to remove it. So, how can you change the look of your room without going through the laborious process of stripping down your old wallpaper first and painting new color for your room?

To do this, you can simply paint over your old wallpaper. Although painting over your wallpaper can still require you to work a little harder, it is not as hard as peeling off your old wallpaper first before painting.

Old wallpapers tend to peel and will have some damaged areas, such as peeled off parts, ripped parts and parts where it came loose and have air bubbles. So, the first thing you need to do is repair the damaged areas. You can glue any of the loose section.

However, if a particular section of your wallpaper has a lot of damage and one that is considered to be irreparable, you have to strip down this wallpaper section. But if the wallpaper section only contains minimal damages, you may want to repair it rather than stripping it down or peel it off.

The next step is by mixing some joint compound and applying it on the seams. This will provide a great fix for peeled off wallpapers and will prevent the wallpapers from getting peeled off again.

There are also some textured wallpapers. If you have textured wallpaper installed, you should apply the joint compound mixture on the whole wall. Let the joint compound dry and the next step is to get rid of the rough surface by sanding it.

It is also very important to consider what color your old wallpaper has. If it is light in color, you can paint on your wallpaper immediately. However, if you have dark colored wallpaper, you first need to apply a sealer. This will keep the wallpaper color from getting visible through the paint.

The next step is painting. Choose high quality house paints, prepare the room for painting by taping windows, putting some old newspapers on the floor to prevent getting any paint on the floor and on your windows.

These are the tips you should remember if you want to paint over your old wallpaper. Home improvement is easier by following these few easy tips.

By: Tim Lee
To learn more interior painting ideas, visit my home painting tips home painting tips site.

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One of the biggest obstacles in painting your home is knowing which types of paints to choose. Basically there are only two types of paint to use inside your home; water based latex paints and oil based paints. The difference is pretty simple actually. For the most part you'll want to use an oil-based paint for the doors, the trim, and high traffic areas - and the water based latex for the walls.

Oil based paints are usually a bit more difficult to use than water based paint. This is because oil based paints are thicker, therefore requires different types of rollers and brushes. As well, when you use oil based paints, it's best to paint in well-ventilated areas because it has a much stronger odor. The nice thing about oil-based paint is that it's available at any paint store and can be easily tinted to almost any color.

If you're using oil-based paint, it's essential to remember that you'll usually need to prime the area first. This is because they have a tendency to peel if the area is not primed correctly. This also happens if your base coat is already oil based.

You have to clean the area before you prime it. You can buy primer at any paint or home improvement store. It can either be applied like spray paint, or brushed on. When you're painting a very dark color, or if the color you're using is dark, then you may want to consider getting the primer tinted first.

Oil based paint often will bubble during the painting process. Be sure that you don't shake this paint, but rather stir it. It's also best if you try to use just one coat when using oil based. This type of paint takes longer to dry than latex paint does, so keep that in mind. Make sure you allow enough ventilation to speed up the process.

It's vital to remember that oil based paint, is considered toxic and hazardous waste. Caution should be used when disposing of it.

There are many projects that are best suited for oil paint.

For instance trim such as window trim, crown molding, bead board, or trim around doors is best done with oil paint. The reason is that this type of paint is much more durable and can take more wear and tear than latex can. As an added benefit, it's much easier to clean than latex.

As well, if you're painting a door you'll want to consider using oil. Again, being that it's easier to clean, things like smudges, fingerprints, and dirt in general will be much easier to clean off.

You may also find that some exterior projects can use oil paint such as trim around windows and doors. Other things such as metal take well to oil, but be sure never to use it on iron or fresh masonry without properly preparing and priming.

For the most part, oil based paints are effective for much of your home, and though a little more tedious to apply makes life afterwards much easier.

By: Kurt Schefken
Kurt Schefken's summaries are found on plenty of online sites with information about portable air tanks and car air compressors. His articles on portable air compressors can be found on http://www.insidewoodworking.com.

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For links to paint manufacturers and suppliers visit the Paint manufactures and distributors directory.

Visit our Contractor Directory for links to material and building supply manufacturers and suppliers as well as contractors listed by specialty.